Swell Event - Ep.2 - True Ames Surf Lords take on Churches
Sometimes all you need is a little 2.5ft @ 14 sec to have a good time. Ian Gottron, Kolton Sullivan, Charlie Waite, and True Ames own Troy Mothershead and Danielle Egge take on Churches.
Waves were small but conditions were crispy early on. Little bit of kelp made things interesting, but these folks flat out know how to surf. Ian surfs a Hobie Glider like it's a hi-pro longboard, Kolton proves he hangs ten with the best of them, Charlie does his usual tip time flow madness, Danielle slides along gracefully, and Troy proves surfing can be hard sometimes.
Ian rides the Hobie Legacy with L-Flex
The primary aspect of the Legacy is trim. It features classic, Terry Martin rocker, a rolled entry, and pinched 50/50 rails from stem to stern. With such a sleek design, the rider can drop-in, step forward, and the feel the enlightening speed of glide. In the Legacy, all one needs do is stand and enjoy the ride. That was Terry’s wish for us all.
Since its inception, the L-Flex has become a widely popular option for an array of wave riding equipment; it pairs especially well with boards that are designed for acceleration, full rail carves, and smooth transitions. Ian showed this, on point, down at Churches. The L-Flex provides down-the-line projection and positive response through turns, giving your board an energetic and alive feeling. All of these attributes are enhanced in the volan construction, where the fins flex, and return to center, is more fluid.
Kolton surfs a custom Tyler Warren Noserider with TW Pivot
This model is a well balanced noserider with less nose-concave than the David Edwards model, and a more forgiving rounder rail. A mellow nose concave blends into a slight rolled vee in the tail. Slight nose rocker with a bit of extra tail kick that is not too extreme to keep down the line speed.
We like to say that this fin has curves in all the right places, kind of like a magic board. Tyler set out to design a fin with the intention of harnessing pivot, drive, and turning ability while longboarding. Once he captured all three of these elements and was able to harmoniously blend them, the TW Pivot template was born. This fin provides hold on the tail, clearly shown in Koltons absurd tip time, but is balanced enough to allow for plenty of freedom in the tail.
Troy surfs a Lovemachine Evening Star with FM Twins
The EveningStar sits right in the mini-glider category, but with a more refined foil than most. Balancing between the ThickLizzy and the FM. The model is an easy, widepoint (slightly) forward outline, well balanced for speed and carving, fluid and fast... forgiving enough for a weekend cruise, but refined for sensitive, mid-face trim and down the line speed that you won't expect.
The Lovelace FM Twin was specifically designed to be paired with Ryan's FM board models. This large and somewhat upright twin design features a somewhat unusual double 50/50 foil. These unique fins will provide lots of speed, drive, and the ability for heavy rail carves and fluid arcing turns when paired with the proper board. Troy shows how the Evening Star adopts these fins well, allowing the 8'1" rail line to flow smoothly but still drive with aggression and proper feedback.
Charlie surfs an Osprey Speed Demon with TW Pivot
The Speed Demon from Osprey Surfboards is in another dimension. It's only relatable to your standard surfboard in that it floats, just kidding, but almost. The overly wide tail block, tucked rail, and bottom contours are a true twist and design innovation from the norm. This board is fast, this board noserides like crazy, and this board zips around. Charlie makes it all look to easy, noseriding deep in the pocket with mega lift.
There isn't a ton more to say about the TW Pivot than what was mentioned above. This fin is technically a pivot fin, however, with it's curves, specifically trailing edge relief allow for more drive and 4A-esque maneuverability while offering much more noseriding hold. It's a fun pairing with the Speed Demon, which would more commonly be paired with something like the California Classic.