Summer Fin Selection: Here is the break down ont these 3 unique templates... ( pictured left to right )
YATER RUDDER: This fin recently 2010 surf season has had a design overhaul. By taking some area out of the middle of the fin, Renny has now found a flex pattern that is almost optimum right away. A flex fin will be a bit stiffer from the beginning, but as it is used, the glass/resin begin to break down, and for some time, the flex will be optimum. This design targets modern long boards and the 2+1 set up. Designed for high performance turning and trimming while actually enhancing overall feel.
YATER SPOON:Every artist must grow weary of performing his opus. A catalog of splendid material, but the crowd only wants to hear the early hits. The Yater Spoon is a timeless step–deck design, and this fin has held steadfast and stable in a lot of photos that read circa in the caption. Thread to spec–a perfect replica of the original, this fin makes new logs feel old and old logs feel older.
YATER CLASSIC: It’s 1969. Okay. Ill–tempered Yater Pocket– Rockets streak straight lines across the USA. 2008: Another year for me and you. Hanging from collectors’ walls, the Pocket Rocket has nothing to do, but its fin–our beloved Yater Classic–is in mass–production. Its upright design, coupled with minimal flex, makes it a layman–friendly, all–purpose gem. Uh oh my. And uh...uh boo hoo.
There is a lot to know about choosing the best fins for your surfboard. Here are a few tips and important factors in picking out the right fin for your style. Remember that the best surf fins are going to be in the right proportion to you and your board.
All fins are not created equal! We take advantage of a vast amount of fin manufacturing experience to create fins that work in many different applications. Designs are executed using the required materials and foils to create the highest performance fins available today.
Flex is a very important element in our designs. Many of our fins come with a tuned flex. A fin that has flex can be very different than a fin without flex. The flex concept brings to life an otherwise average ride. Cutbacks have more power and bottom turns have more projection.
True Ames Fins incorporate a constant foil which means you will not find any flat spots on our fins that may cause water disturbance which will ultimately cause poor performance. Our bigger solid color fins are foiled from 7/16” solid 6oz. glass sheet stock. Smaller fins do not need to be so thick to have the proper foil.
The depth of your fins is measured from base to tip vertically. Adjusting your fin size will affect the performance of your board. Larger fins provide more stability and control, so a larger board will need bigger fins. For example a 9’6” single fin board needs at least a 9.5” fin and if nose riding is most important to you than you will find bigger fins give more forward control.
The outline of a fin is what determines the area and the look. The way the area is distributed on the fin is what makes fins individual and work in so many different ways. A wide base fin with a wide tip is the most stable but not forgiving. A narrow base fin with a narrow tip will be very loose and fast but unstable at slow speeds. The fin’s sweep (or rake angle) affects the board’s ability to carve turns. A more vertical fin will make tight turns and fast directional changes while a more raked fin will carve wider arcs and handle more power through turns. Tail width is also a factor in fin choice. Narrow tail boards do not require deep fins because there is less distance from the fin to the rail. A wide board requires a deeper fin than a narrower board. For example an 8’ egg style board that is on the wide side should use about an 8.5” to 9.0” fin. A narrow tail single fin board that is 7’6” can use a fin in the 7” to 8” range.